"A-B-E"

Monday, 25 June 2012

"We cheer for two teams - our own and whoever plays England," explains the proprietor of Levan Castle, our last stop in Scotland. “We say A-B-E , ‘Anybody But England!’”

The Union Jack of Great Britain flys everwhere in London
ahead of the Olympic Games

Originally from Czech but living and working in London, Jan and his wife Lidia moved to Gourock, Scotland ten years ago. “The opportunity to buy a 14th century castle for the same amount we could sell our house and escape London would have been a crime to pass on.”

Their political views like so many people in these parts come through in their football (soccer) allegiances. “Czech first and A-B-E.”

Our first night in Dublin we did what most people probably do – tour the Guinness brewery at St. James's Gate and eat at Brazen Head, the oldest pub in Dublin dating to 1198. The Pub is full of Italy and A-B-E fans as England and Italy drop the ball on their quarter-final match in the Euro 2012 Tournament. When England’s first scoring chance sails high just a few minutes into the game, I let out a big “Ohhhhhh….”, the only person to do so. Italy and A-B-E fans turn and stare at ‘that guy’ like I’m a Yankees fan in a Back Bay pub full of Red Sox fans with a few pints back.

Notably, Brazen Head pours Irish beers, Heineken, and Coors Light; no English beers in sight. Of course, they also don’t take Pounds or fly the Union Jack. The Republic of Ireland made their sentiments clear when joining the Euro while their neighbors to the north remain aligned with Britain. Better to be quiet about your football sentiments at Brazen Head.

As Italy buries the final penalty kick to resolve in their favor the scoreless tie in which the match ends, fireworks go off in downtown Dublin. Now that is dislike - A-B-E!

Checking out of our hotel the next morning, the hostess who recommended Brazen Head asked how we liked it and if we watched the match. “What did you think of the outcome?” she queries as if she knows the answer and can't wait to agree.

“I was pulling for England. I wanted to see them play Germany in the Semis,” I explain.

“Really?” she responds with a quizzical look and glances at our hotel registration card to confirm I am in fact from America.

There is ample evidence the Scots still don’t feel a whole lot different.

The flag of Scotland flying in the
UK's Capital for Outdoor Adventure

Fort William is advertised as the UK's Capital for Outdoor Adventure yet the only flag we saw flown there, and throughout the rest of the Highlands, was that of Scotland.

Ever heard of Scottish Pounds?

Me either until the ATM in Fort William spit out 10 and 20 Pound notes absent the familiar picture of Queen Elizabeth II that defines English Pounds Sterling. Turns out Scottish Banks, at least four or five of them, issue their own Pounds with distinctly Scottish symbols that are used interchangeably with English Pounds.

Four versions of the 10 Pound Note, three of which are
from Scottish Banks and absent QE II

The two countries also have separate school systems, police forces, and separate English and Scottish regiments in the British military. The history of the Scottish Greys and Grey Dragoons is rich and distinct from other British military units.

Other examples abound, but sports allegiance is really the best barometer. It is fascinating to see how divided many members of Great Britain remain though they will compete together under the Union Jack at the Olympics.

Personally, I think it is great and healthy to maintain your heritage and identity while working together as a nation. Facts be known, if I had to support the New England Patriots to retain my American citizenship, we would be staying in Scotland – A-B-NE!